Windmill’s a gem

With so many pubs closing these days, it’s a pleasure to see one on the up.

The Windmill in Ormskirk offers a glimpse of the future, where the only pubs standing survive by offering a first-class service that puts them at the heart of the community.

The Mill – recently taken over by Alun and Carolyn Comer and Diane and Anthony Seddon – had a reputation as an “old man’s pub” but since my last visit has benefited from what looks like a woman’s touch.

There’s lots of dark wood, a tasteful colour scheme, stylish blinds and subdued lighting — a modern twist on what we expect of a traditional boozer.

There’s also good pub grub available, including an all-day breakfast that hits the spot quicker than a goat’s cheese tartuffe could dare to dream.

As I constantly point out, the only pubs that will make it over the next decade are those who treat drinkers with respect.

So it was a cause for celebration to see a menu at each table offering 33 popular cocktails, a range of “shots” and a good value wine list.

The pub only has one real ale on, Cains of Liverpool, however, it was served in excellent condition.

The barmaid I spoke to said they’d like to have more but are stymied by the small bar area and lack of space in the cellar. Fair enough, but why they need 11 taps for lager — which tastes pretty much the same whoever makes it — is beyond me.

Gripes aside, what makes this pub really stand out is its good atmosphere and friendly welcome.
Taking my two children into an ale-house usually leaves me feeling more self-conscious than a leper at the swimming baths, but the staff couldn’t have been more understanding.

Felt-tips and a colouring book were provided, table service was offered and a free round of bread was delivered for a little boy who only wanted a small chip butty from his daddy’s plate.

There’s Sky sports for those who want it (a Bill Shankly epigram is stencilled on one of the walls, suggesting this is a popular place on match days).

There’s also darts, pub quizzes on Thursdays and Sundays, theme nights, a bowling green and beer garden that the management plan to revamp before the summer.

What more do you want? Elvis?